Wine and volcano, a natural, almost inevitable pair. The power of volcanoes immediately brings to mind the body of wine, with its infinite nuances, and seems to be reflected in the tone of the liquid poured into the glass. In Milo, however, this parallel takes on an unexpected variation. Around here, the finest wine is actually straw-yellow, bright, clear, with a dry, rounded flavor and not very alcoholic. But how, you may ask, has the strength of Etna disappeared?
Palmento
Once again, the volcano surprises. From its mineral-rich soil, just a short distance from the smoking summit looming over the vineyards, a nectar for refined palates is produced; one that has nothing to do with the fiery, coarse wines favored by English soldiers in the nineteenth century, which also came from the lands of the county of Mascali.
Carricante
The Etna Bianco Superiore, as defined by the DOC Etnei production regulations which reserve this designation exclusively to the Municipality of Milo, is thus the exception that proves the rule, the fitting complement to a parallelism that would otherwise seem inadequate. We can continue to reaffirm the natural pairing of volcano and wine, but let us remember that Etna cannot be reduced to just a fiery flow of lava. Our volcano is also a great mountain, home to snow and ice, and so the wines also reflect this wealth of aspects: “Etna Bianco Superiore – writes Mario Soldati – gathers and merges in its pale color and aroma, in its freshness and in its hidden smoky vein, the eternal snows of the summit and the fire of the volcano.” Once you enter the game of metaphor, it is hard to get out. But how can one resist this subtle temptation when talking about vine and wine? How not to be tempted by Soldati’s evocative image? After all, drinking a good glass of wine is a gesture full of meaning. Behind a glass of clear white or full-bodied red often lies a centuries-old story, artisanal care; the very history of the Etna area is closely linked to the development of viticulture. According to the Bourbon cadastre of 1844, vineyard areas in the Milo zone made up 73.3% of the total, while this percentage dropped to 55.3% at Piano del Praino. The expansion of vineyards (and also pasture) inevitably meant further reduction of the forest, which between the 16th and 17th centuries had already been largely diminished by indiscriminate cutting, often motivated by military needs. Later, as Enrico Iachello reports in a detailed study on vine cultivation in the county of Mascali, the trends of the national and international markets had immediate effects especially on marginal areas located on the high slopes of Etna. Mountain vineyards were abandoned or cultivated depending on the outlets that Riposto merchants secured on the markets of the peninsula or Malta.
The very terraces that today constitute the predominant element of Etna’s agricultural landscape are a relatively recent invention, since until the first decades of the last century the stone walls were used only to enclose vineyards that were therefore planted on uninterrupted slopes. Only with the colonization of the most rugged areas, carried out with blasts of gunpowder, did some enterprising cultivators think to use the rubble obtained to build terraces that made vineyard management easier.
Terraces
But let us return to the reality of today. The vineyard, as is easy to see approaching the town of Milo, is no longer the dominant crop. Replaced in the plains by citrus fruits and vegetables, it has lost its former importance even in the higher zones.
Since 1968 a specific regulation has established the Etnei wines with controlled designation of origin (DOC), which are Etna Bianco, Rosso, Rosato, and Bianco Superiore, which – as already mentioned – is limited to the Municipality of Milo. The tendency is therefore to favor quality over quantity. Obviously, even within the DOC production area, normal table wines can be produced, but these fall below the quality standards required for DOC. For Etna Bianco Superiore, it is prescribed that at least 80% must be obtained from “carricante” grapes, a prized local variety, and it must have an alcohol content of at least 12%, while total acidity must be between 5.50 and 7 per mille. Suitable for fish dishes and appetizers, Etna Bianco Superiore is best enjoyed within its first two years. Etna Rosso DOC is obtained from the traditional “nerello mascalese” and “nerello mantellato” grape varieties; its alcohol content cannot be less than 12.50%. Most of the wine produced in Milo (Bianco Superiore in modest quantity and mostly Rosso) is sold directly by producers. This creates a solid trust relationship between consumer (or small retailer) and winemaker.
Purchasing wine for family consumption often becomes an occasion for a pleasant “day trip.” Although naturally the modest size of the companies prevents an organized promotion of the product outside the usual circle of loyal consumers. Crossing Milo and its hamlets, it is also common to encounter impromptu sales of local fruit, usually marketed directly by the producers. During harvest time and for many months afterwards, it is possible to buy apples, Etna pears, and hazelnuts (sometimes even roasted). The fruit comes from the surrounding area, especially from some renowned districts such as Pietraccannone. There are many varieties of apples and pears known and loved by connoisseurs who appreciate their subtle taste nuances.
Gelato cola, Delicious rossa, Golden Delicious are the most common apple varieties locally. Apple cultivation normally takes place between 600 and 1200 meters above sea level, in mountain areas where no other form of agriculture would otherwise be possible.
Particularly appreciated in Milo are the Gelato Cola and Cola varieties (also called Limonella), which are stored after harvest in the town’s cool warehouses until January–February, when they reach perfect ripeness.
Gelato Cola Apples
The selection of pears is also very rich, from Coscia to Butirra, to varieties now endangered such as Spinelle pears. The Coscia pear, present both as a specialized crop and within vineyards, has the merit of maturing early and being ready for consumption as early as July.
Coscia Pears
The most reliable guarantee of the goodness of these Etna fruits, usually small but intensely flavored, comes from the milesi themselves, who widely consume them, drawing from the family reserves jealously kept in the coolest corner of their home.